Heath Vets Blog

Great question.

We have a small puppy who we are trying to toilet train but sometimes when he gets too excited, he can't stop himself from peeing. Is this normal!?

Yes! Toilet training can be a frustrating time, but patience and persistence pays off, and you will get there in the end. Even dogs who have mastered it will sometimes have accidents if they are very excited or stressed when their bladders are full, so if you know something exciting is going to happen (a visitor, for example), make sure the puppy has been out and had a wee before. To toilet train your puppy, you must give him every opportunity to toilet in the correct place, and then reward him immediately. So at times when he is likely to want to go, like as soon as he wakes up and after meals, you should put in where you want him to toilet, and watch him. As soon as he goes, praise him and reward him. It's no good doing this 30 seconds later, it has to be immediate or it won't work. Similarly, if he does have an accident, you can tell him off, but only if it is straight away. However, if your puppy is urinating involuntarily because he is excited, telling him off will not help because he probably was not aware of doing it.

Interesting question

My 14 year old cat doesn't seem to be as agile as she used to be. While slowing down can be associated with growing old, is there a chance that my cat could be suffering from some of the human conditions that we are familiar with – problems such as arthritis or dementia? It sounds a silly question but I am intrigued.

It's not at all a silly question! Our pets are living longer as we understand better how to keep them healthy, and as a consequence we are now seeing more of the age-related problems we are familiar with in ourselves – as you say, like arthritis and dementia. Many old cats are less active and less agile because they have discomfort in their joints, as a result of wear-and-tear arthritis. Obvious lameness is not common, but there are many subtle symptoms. Many choose to watch the world rather than joining in; some are stiff or slow going down (or up) the stairs, and sometimes they stop using the litter box. Fortunately, we now have some excellent drugs to alleviate the discomfort, so don't delay – make an appointment for your cat to have a check-up. You also mentioned dementia; this too is common in elderly cats, but is more associated with confusion, crying (yowling) for no reason, and alterations in behaviour, rather than 'slowing down', so I don't think you need worry about it.

One of our clients asked us this question recently. 

We have a small dog and about a month ago, we noticed some black, freckle-like spots on his belly. They are smooth to the touch and don't seem to be causing him any bother. Should I be worried about them?

There are several possible explanations for these marks. They are most likely normal pigment deposits, possibly associated with sun exposure (especially in white-coated breeds) – although there hasn't been much of that around lately! However, we also see blackening of the skin as a result of chronic inflammation, although you may not even have noticed him itching or scratching. Sometimes, small patches of pigment appear when pustules heal up. You could also be seeing comedones, which are like little blackheads, and can be due to a hormone problem. Lastly, melanomas are uncommon in dogs, but should be considered. On the whole, it's probably best to get him checked now, or at least ask the vet to have a look the next time he's in for a check-up.

Please get in touch if you have any questions

Last week one of our clients asked the following:

My dog really doesn't like her bath times. Is there anything I can try to make bathtimes less stressful, both for her and me? I thought that dogs were supposed to love water!

Here are our thoughts.

I am afraid there's no simple answer here. It's easy to say, and you probably realise it now, but you should have started off when she was a little puppy, making bathtime fun, and rewarding her for good behaviour – just like a child. Now she's got a 'thing' about bathing, it will be difficult to re-educate her but not impossible. There are 'calming' medicines, such as Zylkene or various herbal remedies, but I doubt they will be strong enough to have much effect.

First, try to work out what it is that upsets her, and if possible avoid or minimise it. Is it getting wet, the feel of the shower rinsing her off, the slipperiness of the bath, or all of these? If your dog feels her feet are going to slip, it will make her very tense, so use a non-slip mat in the bath or shower. If she doesn't like being sprayed with the shower, just pour water over her with a jug (but make sure you do rinse the shampoo out thoroughly). If it's just the getting wet she hates, you could even try one of the dry shampoos that are available.

Having taken all steps possible to remove the causes of the anxiety, proceed with your bath routine, being calm but firm. Do not react to her anxiety by giving treats or kind words to calm her – that will just teach her that being anxious gets rewarded. However, do reward her with praise and treats while she is calm during the bath, and afterwards as soon as she has settled down. Remember that your dog does not understand your words, but responds to your body language and the tone of your voice. If you are worried (about how she will behave), she will pick up on this and be more likely to react badly.

We are often asked whst are the side effects of neutering so in this blog we look at the most common side effects.

Weight gain is the most common problem that dogs experience after neutering. Calories consumed in excess of the daily need can either be burned off as 'waste' heat, or stored (as fat) for later use. What an individual's metabolism does is decided by factors such as breed, age, sex and others. When an animal is neutered, more of the excess calories are stored as fat than were previously ... but it's only the excess calories that are stored. You need to be careful to monitor your dog's weight and reduce his rations if necessary. We usually recommend that when fully grown dogs are neutered, the owners immediately reduce the amount they are fed, on the principle that it's easier to gain weight if you get thin, than to lose it if you get fat!

Guinea pigs are very social creatures and should never be kept alone. People often pair them up with rabbits (which also should never be housed singly), but I would not recommend this as we do see occasional injuries caused by bullying or just the size difference. So you need to find another guinea pig for company. This should be the same sex, or alternatively one or other should be neutered. You could try to find an adult that needs a new home – try guinea pig rescue forums online, look in the freeads, or contact the RSPCA. Alternatively, buy a youngster. Introduce the two carefully. Ideally they should spend at least several days, preferably a week or two in adjacent runs, able to interact and get to know each other without being able to fight. When you put them together, do so in a neutral territory – don't put the newcomer in the original piggy's run. Supervise them closely to start with, and the chances are good that they will settle down and bond closely.

If you have any queries give us a call.

The usual reason why cats scratch furniture is for marking their territory. The pads on their paws secrete a pheromone that has a friendly smell and reassures the cat that it is in 'home' territory. Roughening the surface by scratching enables the scent to be held more securely and therefore last longer. You will often see cats scratching on tree trunks, fences etc., outdoors - we take little notice because it doesn't matter; it only becomes an issue when it's your best furniture or new wallpaper that's at risk.

A cat will mark new furniture precisely because it is new - it needs to impregnate it with pheromones to make it belong in its home. Sometimes, cats will start to scratch furniture or wallpaper which has been around a while. This is usually because they feel under stress, perhaps because of a lot of visitors, changes in the house, a new baby, or new cats in their outdoor territory. They are seeking to increase their feelings of security.

A scratching post can sometimes help deflect a cat's need to mark. It needs to be in a prominent place, near to an entrance because this is where the cat prefers to put the pheromone. You can enhance its interest in the post by spraying it with catnip solution (available in most good pet shops). However, the most effective treatment is a synthetic version of the cat's own pheromone called Feliway. This is available as a spray which you apply sparingly to the areas where the marking is taking place. Your cat will detect the smell and realise it has no need to reinforce it. This also works well for cats which mark their territory by urine spraying. You can get Feliway at your vet's surgery, along with lots more advice if the problem persists.

Feeding your new cat the right food is one of the most important things you can do to help keep it happy and healthy. Cats are obligate carnivores – they do not thrive on a meat-free diet as their bodies need the amino acids found in animal protein to develop and promote healthy tissue growth.

Kittens and cats also need the taurine found naturally in chicken and fish for healthy hearts, eyes and reproductive systems. A high-quality pet food contains all the essential elements for your kitten's growth, which you can supplement with occasional treats and fresh meat and fish as appropriate. Commercial foods have been specially formulated to take into account the specific needs of cats, but they vary in quality and you get what you pay for. We recommend that you give your pet the best possible start in life by feeding it top-quality kitten food, the best you can afford. The best foods are usually biscuit-type formulations, and as well as being nutritionally sound, these are very hygienic.

Always remember to keep a bowl of fresh water available. Growing kittens have twice the energy requirements of adult cats, so the kitten food you choose is packed with all the extra calories and nutrients their bodies need. Even when your kitten appears to be fully grown on the outside, it is still developing internally, so it's best to stay with the kitten food for its first year. When it is very small (up to 10 weeks of age), give it at least four meals a day. Gradually reduce the number of meals as its stomach grows until it is having two feeds a day by six months old. Cats naturally eat little and often, so it is best to give no fewer than two meals a day throughout their life.

Treats to avoid:

Cow's milk: Some kittens and cats cannot digest this properly, and it may cause stomach upsets and diarrhoea. Using specially-formulated cat milk instead avoids this problem.

Chocolate: This can be toxic to animals; choose cat treats instead.

Tuna: Fed excessively, this can cause osteoporosis as it is low in calcium and too high in phosphorous for the cat to metabolise.

Liver: A diet containing a high proportion of liver can supply too much vitamin A, which causes bone and joint problems.

Are there any dangers to cats around the house at Christmas? I'm always worried that my cat will chew on the Christmas lights and electrocute herself. I'm also worried about her eating things she shouldn't!

There are many potential dangers in the home for pets at Christmas; fortunately most cats are too sensible to come to any harm, but there are a few areas to look out for. You've mentioned the Christmas lights, and they could potentially injure her if she chose to chew the wires – but why should she? Does she chew other electric cables? If so, you are right to be concerned, but chewing wires is usually a puppy's or a house-rabbit's mischief rather than a cat's. Make you you use a low-voltage set of lights to minimise the risk, and tape down or hide the wires to reduce their attactiveness. You need to make sure your Christmas tree is stable so that if the cat decides to climb it (and why wouldn't she – it's just a tree!) it doesn't come crashing down on your best ornaments. If you have a live tree standing in water to reduce the needle drop, make sure the water is not accessible as resins from the tree could make it toxic; the needles are also dangerous if eaten, so hoover them up regularly. Tinsel should be out of her reach as it is interesting and she may try to play with it; if she ate it, the long strands could cause an obstruction. Artificial snow is toxic to cats, so don't use it anywhere she could lick it.

There are several plants particularly associated with Christmas which are poisonous to cats, including poinsettias, mistletoe and holly. Keep them out of the way and make sure you pick up any fallen berries or leaves. Don't forget how poisonous lily pollen is, so pick off the stamens to eliminate the risk of it getting on your cat.

Why vaccination is important?

Cats and dogs of all ages can and do become seriously ill or die from infectious diseases that could have been prevented through vaccination. Vaccination offers the most effective way of protecting your pet against many of the most serious infectious diseases. For cats this includes Cat Flu, Feline Infectious Enteritis, Feline Leukaemia Virus and Chlamydophila. For dogs this includes Canine Parvovirus, Canine Distemper, Infectious Canine Hepatitis, Canine Parainfluenza and Leptospirosis. Many of these diseases are commonly reported in the UK, and they represent a potentially significant threat to your pet's health.

How vaccines work

Vaccines work by stimulating the body's immune system to mount a protective response against specific disease(s). The immune system then remembers these diseases, enabling it to defend the body against any natural exposure to that disease in the future. Every vaccine lasts for different lengths of time, depending on the disease it is protecting against. Most animals require regular boosters to "remind" the immune system and enhance the level of protection.

Vaccination schedule

Fifty things every dog should do before it dies.

We recently came across this list compiled by Marc Abraham (the TV vet) for More Than Insurance and published in the Daily Telegraph.

How many of these has your dog achieved?

The 50 things every dog should do before dying:

1. Flop down in front of a morning fire

2. Go for a swim in the sea

3. Go mad in the snow

4. Dig up a flower bed

5. Do the 'Beethoven' shake and soak everyone around you

6. Have your own spot on the sofa

7. Accompany your owner on a run/cycle ride

8. Attend a family picnic

9. Help your owner bag a date

10. Cheer your owner up when they are down

As we know bringing your cat to the vet can be a stressful expereince for both the owner and the cat. Our new surgery in Danescourt has a designated area just for cats, allowing you to wait in an area shielded from the other activities in the surgery. We have also provided a table for clients to place their cat basket on, keeping them off the floor. 

Surviving the winter months can be a challenge for many pets, so here are a few seasonal tips to keep your pet fit and healthy at this time of year.

Obesity Alert: As the days get shorter and the nights draw in, it can be harder to find the time to walk your dog and cats love snuggling down in front of the fire rather than getting out and about. Try to keep the exercise levels constant as this will help to ensure they stay fit. If you think your pet is putting on weight, contact us for advice as carrying extra weight can lead to illnesses such as heart disease and diabetes.

Arthritis alert: Keep an eye out for joint stiffness. Limps and difficulty rising after a rest are both signs of joint stiffness and pain, which can be made worse by cold weather. Any added weight will also make things worse.

Festive hazards: There are so many hazards around at this time of year for our pets. Ribbon and tinsel are very attractive to mischievous pets and, if swallowed, may lead to intestinal blockage. Don't forget that chocolate is highly toxic to dogs, the higher the cocoa content the more toxic it is. Grapes, raisins and sultanas can also be harmful to dogs. No Christmas pudding with chocolate sauce this year!

Mistletoe: This is very toxic to pets and both the leaves and berries can cause considerable harm, make sure it is out of reach.

Antifreeze: Keep the lid on. Antifreeze is very sweet and pets love the taste, but it can be a killer.

If you need any further information, just give us a call.

Calming devices:

Devices which release natural calming chemicals that help to reassure your dog are now available. For dogs, they are called "Adaptil", and for cats they are "Feliway".

Adaptil

Adaptil is a synthetic copy of a natural canine appeasing pheromone, produced by bitches to make puppies feel safe. It has been used by behaviourists, vets and animal charities for the last 10 years to help dogs cope with a range of stressful situations, firework fear being one of them.

Feliway

Feliway is a synthetic version of the cat facial pheromone used by cats to mark their territory as a safe and secure place. Over many years it has proved its value in reducing stress-related cat behaviours such as urine spraying and vertical scratching.

Adaptil and Feliway are available in a plug-in diffuser which should be positioned where the pet spends most of its resting time, starting at least a week before fireworks time. They are also available as a short-acting spray to use directly in the den or bed to increase the pheromone level when the stress is highest, and Adaptil also comes as a collar.

Zylkene

Zylkene is a natural product derived from milk. It has a calming and tranquilising effect similar to the effect of a milk drink on a puppy. Since its launch in April 2008, Zylkene has been used in many common situations which cause stress in our pets, including firework fear. Vets, behaviourists, nurses and pet owners have all found Zylkene to be a valuable asset in managing stress.

Zylkene is very easy to give: it comes as a milk-based (and therefore palatable) powder in a capsule. Just open the capsule and sprinkle the powder on some food, just once a day. It is very safe, has no side-effects and is non-addictive.

Treatment should be started a 2-3 days before the fireworks, and continue a few days after.

Drugs

Medication may be useful in some cases but must only be given under veterinary supervision. Remember, drugs should ideally be given so they take effect BEFORE any noise starts or panic sets in. This is usually at least an hour ahead of the events. An alternative approach uses a combination of drugs given over the whole firework period, starting about two weeks before. If you think your pet will need drugs to help them cope, make an appointment to see the vet to get everything sorted out well in advance of Bonfire night.

Don't make the situation worse by your own behaviour:

Try to arrange that you are with your dog so that he does not have the additional problem of being isolated at this time. Remember dogs are very social creatures. However, resist the temptation to reassure your dog or use physical contact such as cuddling to make him feel better. Close physical interaction can inadvertently reinforce the fear. Ignore these noises yourself and try to involve your dog in some form of active game (such as juggling your dog's toys) so he can choose to join in but only if he wants to.

Stay calm yourself: Most pets can sense when their owners are worried, and this increases their stress. Let them hide in the den, and leave them there until the fireworks have finished and they come out. You can give your pet lots of fuss once they emerge.

Don't get angry or punish your pet. Although your pet's behaviour may be annoying, it is happening because they are scared and getting cross will only make them worse. Don't try to take your pet out of its hiding place – this increases their stress and could lead to aggression.

Be prepared for unusual behaviour – Fear can make your pet behave out of character. For example, if they anticipate that going into the garden predicts a loud noise, they may hide or show aggression to avoid going outside.

My friend down the street has a dog that is not scared of fireworks and gets on with mine. She has offered to lend me her dog for support. Shall I accept?

This could be a helpful strategy in some cases provided that the non-fearful dog is emotionally robust and is not going to be adversely affected by the fearful dog. Playing with the non-fearful dog when your own becomes scared may help to encourage him to join in and reduce his fear. However, every case should be judged on its own merits and bringing another dog into the situation is certainly not always a helpful strategy.

Provide a den or hiding place - Animals naturally hide when they are scared and it can help to provide a 'safe place' which they can squeeze into, like an understairs cupboard or an indoor kennel with blankets over the top and inside. An ideal place is somewhere near the centre of the house, or somewhere they have already hidden.

Muffle the sound of fireworks - Close curtains, shut outside doors and windows, and have your pet as near to the centre of the house as possible. Blacking out the room removes the potentially additional problems of flashing lights, flares etc., which can become predictors of the noises that your dog or cat is scared of.

Distract your pet: Put on the TV or play music with drumbeats to help mask the sound of fireworks. It does not necessarily have to be loud as long as there is a constant distracting rhythm to the music which will prevent your dog from concentrating on the noises outside. Engage in an activity with your pet to distract him or provide plenty of familiar toys, but change these frequently so there is lots of new stimulation to interest your dog at this time.

Keep pets inside – Don't let them outside when fireworks are likely or during a display. Take dogs out for toilet purposes before it gets dark and then keep them in. Shut all the doors, windows and the cat flap; provide extra litter trays if your cat is not used to being shut in. Remember, a firework going off when they are outside can lead a pet to develop a general fear of going out.

Feed your dog a good meal in the mid afternoon and give him a supply of carbohydrate (such as pasta) three hours later with added vitamin B6. This can help by giving him a full stomach during the evening. This diet also increases the body's natural calming chemicals in the brain. If necessary do not feed him at any other time during the day to ensure a good appetite.

If your dog is prone to diarrhoea when scared or at other times, or has other medical conditions necessitating a special diet, please consult us and we will give specific advice regarding this strategy.

 Firework Phobias

Top Tips

• Provide a den or hiding place
• Disguise and muffle firework noise
• Walk the dog before dusk, shut the doors, windows and cat flap
• Don't react to your pet's fear, stay calm yourself and don't be angry with your pet
• Feed a high-carbohydrate meal a couple of hours before
• Plug in an Adaptil or Feliway diffuser 1-2 weeks before
• Use Adaptil or Feliway spray in the evening
• Use Zylkene capsules from a few days before Bonfire night
• For particularly fearful pets, tranquilisers are available from the us. Make an appointment at least two weeks before you need them.

Firework season is a very stressful time of year for many pets and owners – just under half of the UK's dog population, and many cats, react to sudden loud noises. If ignored, the problem tends to get worse over time and can expand to include fear of other loud noises, such as thunder, and eventually everyday noises such as doors slamming.

Pets show varied stress reactions to firework noise - they can withdraw into themselves and hide, soil in the house, and sometimes become destructive or even harm themselves whilst trying to escape from the noise.

To successfully manage firework-related stress, it is important to consider the short-term problem, when fireworks will be heard, and also find a long-term solution.

The final installment of our guest blogs on inspirational dogs.

Where in the world would you find the grave of a dog that never was? Snowdonia inNorth Wales is the answer. The dog was named after a 6th century saint who lived in a cave as a hermit and was martyred for his faith.  The saint was Gelert, and his namesake was the legendary hunting dog Gelert whose tragic tale of misunderstood faithfulness is enough to make a stone statue of the aforementioned saint weep blood.

 
Legend has it that Prince Llewellyn was gifted his fine hound by King John of England.  One day, Prince Llewellyn left Gelert at home to protect his precious only son whilst he went out hunting.  However, a vicious wolf leapt through an open window and tried to snatch the sleeping baby from his cradle!
 
When the Prince returned home he was faced with a horrifying scene. The cot was upturned; the baby nowhere to be seen and bloody splashes patterned the room.  Gelert was whining, red and dripping, and in a fit of rage, the Prince slaughtered Gelert with his sword.  Seconds later he heard muffled cries; under the cot he found the baby alive and well and just next to it, the body of the wolf that Gelert had killed in order to save the babe.  Apparently the Prince never spoke again, so horrified was he at how he had repaid his faithful dog.
 
But wait and dry those tears!  There are tonnes of faithful dog stories, but this ain’t one of ‘em!  A chap called David Pritchard who ran a hotel in this small North Wales village decided he needed more custom and came up with a brilliant idea; he invented the story of Gelert. That’s how Gelert was born (and died) and the name Beddgelert (Gelert’s Grave) became famous.  To this day you can trek across a field and visit the grave, and you can pop into the Royal Goat Hotel too.
 
So, both the real and the imagined Gelert died because of their true faithfulness, Mr Pritchard got rich and Beddgelert became one of North Wales’ best loved tourist haunts.  Nice work Mr Pritchard.

Ruth Terrett is the boss at Johnny Muttley which supplies rather nice gifts for dogs and dog lovers. www.johnnymuttley.com

The second installment of our guest blog series from Ruth of Johnny Mutley

When your small Alaskan town is under threat of an imminent diphtheria epidemic, your  aircraft has a frozen engine and can’t fly out for the vital antitoxin, any road links are impassable and the weather conditions vicious; who will save the day?  In 1925 it was a black Siberian husky called Balto.  Yup, there’s a book and a film about him, but the WHOLE story if you dig through a few more snowdrifts, actually involves a hundred and fifty sled dogs. 

So to begin.  Diptheria is rampant and fast approaching the small town of Nome.  Medics are predicting that without the serum, hundreds of the town’s youngsters will die. Unfortunately, the life saving serum is a thousand miles away in Anchorage and Nome is cut off.  Enter the hero, of the hour, a dog, Balto.  He was named after a Sami adventurer, and wasn’t thought of initially as a dog of much substance.  However, needs must, and dog teams set out in relays to cover the vast, icy expanse of Alaska. Through blizzards and temperatures which plummeted down to minus 23 degrees F, the animals fought on, staying on the trail through whiteout conditions.

The serum was brought to Nome, the day was saved and Balto was a hero, but a hero amongst many.   Togo led another team, Fritz was his half brother, and trying to get them recognized too at the end of the epic journey caused a lot of controversy.  Technically, Togo travelled furthest, but it was Balto who led the final leg into Nome, and he who gets the credit!

So, in terms of inspiration, Balto stands for the efforts of every one of those one hundred and fifty sled dogs and their drivers.  In commemoration of their journey, there is an annual Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race, and a statue of Balto stands proudly in New York’s Central Park.  The legend beneath it reads, "Dedicated to the indomitable spirit of the sled dogs that relayed antitoxin six hundred miles over rough ice, across treacherous waters, through Arctic blizzards from Nenana to the relief of stricken Nome in the winter of 1925.  Endurance, Fidelity, Intelligence.”